The Giant Ammonite in Fernie, British Columbia has long been on my bucket list. I learned of it while researching things to do on our various summer adventures and have wanted to see it in person ever since. This dream finally came true during our Labour Day 2023 camping trip to Mount Fernie Provincial Park.
The trail to the ammonite fossil is a tad mysterious. It’s not an official trail so you won’t find it on many trail maps. I found this a bit surprising because Fernie is overflowing with trails, nearly all of which are well-documented on signage and information sources around town. Not so much the giant ammonite. And even when the fossil’s location is denoted, there isn’t much information on how to get to it.
We used the AllTrails website on which experienced hikers have posted reliable directions. I was a bit skeptical at first, particularly with no trail markings present, but the instructions in AllTrails comments were spot on, so kudos to those that shared their knowledge.
There are, in fact, several different paths to the giant ammonite. We met a father and daughter team at the endpoint who had arrived from an entirely different direction. They even returned to base using a third route. None of the options are especially easy, and judging by their reactions when we crossed paths, their approach had been very difficult.
Finding the Trailhead
We chose the better documented route starting from Coal Creek Road east of town. Coal Creek Road starts in a residential area in the east-central part of town on the east side of the Elk River. The staging area and trailhead are approximately 5km further east.
Coal Creek Road is a rough, gravel road that was severely damaged by flooding a decade ago. Prior to getting to the trailhead area, you will reach a ditch that crosses the entire road. You need to cross this to get to the true trailhead. It is passable by most vehicles, but trucks and SUVs will have an easier go of it than regular cars.
You will find the parking area and trailhead near the washed-out bridge. You can’t miss it. I mean, you could miss it, but you’ll be in the river if you do. Park in the open space to the side of this bridge. There will likely be other cars present so just follow their lead.
Next, you’ll need to find a way over the river which will be tricky. Later in the season when water flow is low, you should be able to find a path hopping across exposed boulders. You still might get a bit wet if you’re not careful, but there is no other option. Earlier in the season, well, good luck to you.
Once across the river, follow the Coal Creek Road eastward, away from the damaged bridge. A couple hundred metres along you will see an old, partially overgrown road heading south, into the woods on your right. It’s the type of overgrown field pathway a tractor would use. That is the trailhead and your adventure starts from there.
The Trail to the Giant Ammonite
Finding this trailhead seems to be the most difficult part of the instructions shared on AllTrails. Once you get that right, the rest is straightforward though not necessarily easy.
The trail alternates from dirt to rock and back, and from forested to out in the open. In these open portions there are some delightful views to be had that are otherwise blocked by the trees. You cross a couple of small, mountain creeks (one was dry by September) and gain elevation much of the way though never too steeply.
AllTrails rates this route as moderate, which seems fair. I didn’t find it overwhelming, but you won’t want to try this hike in running shoes. There are some rough patches and as I mentioned above, it’s not an official, maintained trail. And the ending will definitely challenge you.
The last segment of the hike requires you to descend a short, dirt cliff using a rope down into a rocky creek bed. You then must scramble up the creek bed for a hundred metres or so until the valley makes a ninety degree turn to your right. At that turn, up on the outcrop to your right, is the giant ammonite.
The Giant Ammonite of Fernie, BC
It’s well worth the effort if you’re at all interested in fossils and geology, but I have to admit I thought it would be bigger. It’s often described as a tractor tire, which I guess it kind of looks like, but any tractor tires I’ve seen seem larger than this.
Nonetheless, it’s easily the biggest ammonite fossil I’ve laid eyes on by many orders of magnitude. There’s also many wee little ones in the outcrops of the creek bed to emphasize just how magnificent this thing truly is by comparison.
Technically speaking, the giant ammonite of Fernie isn’t a fossil. Rather, it is a partial cast and mold of a once magnificent creature. Only the smuggest of geology nerds will call you out for labeling it a fossil. And no matter what you call it, it’s a cool thing to go see for yourself.
Enjoy a stimulating hike, marvel at some of Mother Nature’s work, then head back to town for a cold bevvy. What’s not to love?